A flat-bed knitting machine is a type of weft-knitting machine where needles are arranged in a straight line across a flat plate known as the "bed." These machines can have either a single bed of needles or two beds positioned opposite each other. Flat-bed machines are most commonly used to produce a variety of knitted fabrics, such as sweaters, trims, scarves, and other similar products.
How Flat Knitting Works
Flat knitting involves periodically turning the fabric as it is being knitted, meaning the fabric is worked with alternating sides facing the knitter. This method is different from circular knitting, which always works from the same side. An alternative technique to achieve the same result is knitting alternately from right to left and left to right without turning the fabric. This back-and-forth technique requires ambidextrous motor skills (whether innate or learned).
Right Side vs. Wrong Side
In flat knitting, the fabric has two sides, commonly referred to as the right side and the wrong side:
- Right Side: The side that faces outward, toward the viewer, and away from the wearer's body.
- Wrong Side: The side that faces inward, toward the wearer’s body.
Challenges and Advantages of Flat Knitting
Flat knitting differs from circular knitting, which is typically faster and simpler, as it is always knitted from the same side. With flat knitting, the same stitch (as seen from the right side) may be created by two different movements. For example:
- A knit stitch on the right side may be formed by a knit stitch on the right side or by a purl stitch on the wrong side.
This can cause variations in the gauge of the knitting in alternating rows, especially in stockinette fabrics. While this variation is usually not noticeable, it can be minimized with practice. Alternatively, some knitters use needles of two different sizes, although this method is less effective.
Turning the Fabric
In flat knitting, the fabric is usually turned after each row. However, in double knitting (using two yarns and double-pointed needles), the fabric may only need to be turned after every second row.
Flat knitting can be done by hand (as described above) or on a single-bed knitting machine. It can also be produced on a double-bed knitting machine using just one bed.
Industrial Flat Bed Knitting Machines
In industrial applications, the terms "flat" and "circular" take on different meanings. An industrial flat knitting machine is typically a Vee-bed machine, which consists of two flat needle beds arranged in an inverted "V" formation. These needle beds can extend up to 2.5 meters (approximately 8 feet 2 inches) in width.
A carriage, also known as a Cambox or Head, moves back and forth across the needle beds, manipulating the needles to selectively knit, tuck, or transfer stitches.
Advantages of Flat Bed Machines
- Flexibility: Industrial flat knitting machines are incredibly versatile, allowing for the creation of complex stitch designs, precise shaped knitting, and width adjustments.
- Slower Speed: Compared to circular knitting machines, flat knitting machines are relatively slower. Typical knitting speeds are around 0.5 meters per second (or 1.6 feet/second). This slower speed is often associated with hand-operated flat knitting machines.
Key Manufacturers of Industrial Flat Knitting Machines
The two largest manufacturers of industrial flat knitting machines are:
- Stoll (Germany)
- Shima Seiki (Japan)
Additionally, the industrial hand flat knitting machine is credited to the Isaac Lamb patents, which revolutionized knitting technology.
Conclusion
Flat-bed knitting machines play a crucial role in the production of a wide variety of knitted fabrics, from basic garments to intricate designs. While they come with their own set of challenges, such as variations in stitch formation, they offer unparalleled flexibility and precision, making them an essential tool in both hand knitting and industrial fabric production.
Key Takeaways:
- Flat knitting involves working with alternating sides, requiring turning the fabric or using ambidextrous techniques.
- Right side and wrong side distinctions are key in flat knitting.
- Industrial flat knitting machines are slower than circular machines but offer flexibility for complex designs.
- Stoll and Shima Seiki are the leading manufacturers of industrial flat knitting machines.
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