Weft Knitting: A Detailed Guide

Weft knitting is a method of knitting where loops are formed horizontally by adjacent needles. It is one of the most commonly used techniques in knitting, particularly for producing fabrics with good stretch and flexibility.

Types of Weft Knitting Machines

There are two main types of machines used for weft knitting:

1. Circular Knitting Machine:
   The most common machine used for weft knitting is the circular knitting machine. This machine creates a tube of fabric by knitting in a spiral configuration around a cylinder. The width of the fabric is determined by the number of needles on the machine. Each revolution of the machine completes one course for each yarn fed, which means the fabric is produced in a continuous round shape. Circular knitting machines are widely used for producing seamless garments like socks, T-shirts, and hosiery.

2. Flat Bed Knitting Machine:
   The second type of machine used in weft knitting is the flat-bed machine. In this machine, the needles are arranged in a straight line on a flat plate called the bed. These machines can have a single bed of needles or two beds opposite each other. Flat-bed machines are commonly used to produce sweaters, trim, scarves, and other similar fabrics. Unlike the circular knitting machine, flat-bed machines produce flat, open fabrics rather than tubes.

How Weft Knitting Works

In weft knitting, needles placed next to each other knit in sequence to produce one row of loops from the same yarn. These loops are formed in a horizontal direction (from right to left) as the yarn is fed into the machine. The structure of the knitted fabric consists of loops arranged in rows and columns.

• Horizontal Row of Loops (Course):
  A course refers to the horizontal row of loops formed by adjacent needles in the same knitting cycle. The course count measures how many courses appear per linear unit of fabric, typically expressed in inches or centimeters. For example, in a given area, there may be 5 courses per inch.

• Vertical Column of Loops (Wale):
  A wale refers to the vertical column of loops produced by the same needle knitting at successive knitting cycles. The wale count measures how many wales appear per linear length of fabric. For instance, in the same area, you might have 5 wales per inch.

Understanding the Structure of Weft Knitted Fabric

To visualize the structure of a weft knitted fabric, consider the following:

• The loops are arranged in horizontal rows (courses) and vertical columns (wales).
• Each yarn is fed into the machine, and the loops are created in a continuous sequence. These loops interlock to form the fabric, and the relationship between the courses and wales is critical for determining the fabric's texture, stretch, and appearance.

Key Takeaways of Weft Knitting:

• Weft knitting is the process of forming horizontal rows of loops (courses) using adjacent needles.
• Circular knitting machines create tubular fabrics by knitting in a spiral pattern.
• Flat-bed machines produce flat fabrics and are commonly used for garments like sweaters and scarves.
• The course count refers to the number of horizontal rows of loops per unit of length, while the wale count refers to the number of vertical columns of loops.
• The number of courses and wales affects the fabric's texture, flexibility, and stretchability.

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Conclusion

Weft knitting is a widely used method that forms the foundation of many fabrics, from seamless garments to intricately knitted textiles. By understanding the role of courses and wales, as well as the differences between circular and flat-bed machines, you can appreciate how various types of knitted fabrics are produced and how they are designed for specific uses.