A course refers to a horizontal row of loops created by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle. In an upright knitted fabric, the consecutive loops connected horizontally are also called courses. A course is predominantly a horizontal row of loops (in upright fabric) created by the same knitting cycle of adjacent needles.
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Weft Knitting: In weft knitting, a course is composed of yarn from a single supply, known as the course length. A pattern row is a horizontal row of loops produced by one bed of adjacent needles. In a plain weft knitted fabric, the course and the pattern row are identical, but in more complex fabrics, a pattern row may involve two or more course lengths. For example, in ribbed or textured knits, several course lengths may be involved in creating a pattern row.
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Warp Knitting: In warp knitting, each loop in a course is usually made from a separate yarn. This means that each loop in the horizontal row comes from a different supply of yarn, making it distinct from the weft knitting method where a single yarn can form an entire course. Warp knitting tends to be more stable and less elastic compared to weft knitting. Common examples of warp knitting include tricot and raschel fabrics.
Related Terms:
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Course Length: This refers to the length of the yarn used to form a course. The course length plays a critical role in fabric construction, as it affects the fabric’s density and stretch. A longer course length can lead to a looser fabric, while a shorter course length often results in a denser, tighter fabric.
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Pattern Row: In weft knitting, the term pattern row refers to a horizontal row of loops that could consist of multiple course lengths. In simpler fabrics, a pattern row is identical to a course, but in more intricate fabrics, like ribbing or textured knits, the pattern row may require multiple courses to complete. The pattern row in more complex fabrics may involve different yarns and needle manipulation.
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Wales and Courses: In knitted fabric, wales are the vertical columns of loops, running from top to bottom. Courses are the horizontal rows of loops, running from side to side. The number of wales and courses determines the fabric's stretchability and texture. For example, more wales per inch will make a fabric feel denser and more structured, while more courses can create a softer, stretchier fabric.
Key Differences in Weft vs Warp Knitting:
- Weft Knitting: In weft knitting, yarn is knitted horizontally across the fabric. The yarn supply moves from one side of the fabric to the other, forming a course at a time. This method allows for more flexibility and stretch in the fabric.
- Warp Knitting: In warp knitting, each loop in a course is formed by a separate yarn, which runs vertically. This technique usually produces fabrics that are more stable and less stretchy, making it suitable for more durable textiles. Examples include fabrics like tricot, raschel, and other warp-knit materials.
Practical Applications:
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Fabric Texture: The number of courses in a fabric influences its texture. More courses typically create a denser, less stretchy fabric, while fewer courses can result in a looser, stretchier fabric.
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Designing Fabrics: Designers use the arrangement of courses to manipulate the texture, pattern, and appearance of the fabric. For example, varying the number of courses or altering the type of yarn used in certain rows can create different effects such as ribbing, cabling, or lace.
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